Most gemstone damage happens during cleaning, not during wearing. Here is what is safe and what is not.
The safe routine
For sapphire, ruby, spinel, garnet, zircon, topaz and aquamarine:
- Fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a drop of mild washing-up liquid.
- Soak for ten minutes.
- Brush gently with a soft toothbrush, paying attention to the underside of the setting where soap and skin oils collect.
- Rinse in clean lukewarm water.
- Dry with a soft lint-free cloth.
That is all most jewelry ever needs.
Never use
- Hot water on any gemstone. Thermal shock cracks stones.
- Ultrasonic cleaners on emerald, opal, moonstone, pearl, tanzanite or any fracture filled stone.
- Steam cleaners on anything other than diamond, sapphire, ruby and spinel.
- Household chemicals — bleach, ammonia, chlorine and acetone all attack both stones and metal.
Stone by stone
| Stone | Hardness | Cleaning |
|---|---|---|
| Sapphire / Ruby | 9 | Anything except hot water |
| Spinel | 8 | Anything except hot water |
| Aquamarine | 7.5–8 | Warm soapy water |
| Garnet | 6.5–7.5 | Warm soapy water |
| Tourmaline | 7–7.5 | Warm soapy water |
| Zircon | 6.5–7.5 | Warm soapy water, no ultrasonic |
| Moonstone | 6–6.5 | Warm soapy water, no ultrasonic |
| Opal | 5.5–6.5 | Soft cloth only, never soak |
Silver
925 sterling silver tarnishes. It is not a fault — it is what silver does when it meets sulphur in the air. Wear it often and it stays bright; leave it in a drawer for months and it will darken.
For light tarnish, a silver polishing cloth is enough. For heavier tarnish, use a silver dip briefly, then rinse thoroughly. Do not use silver dip on pieces with pearls, opals or porous stones set in them.
Storing
Keep pieces separate. Hardness varies between stones and a loose sapphire will scratch a moonstone in the same box. Use the pouch and box your order arrived in, or a lined jewelry tray with individual compartments.
Wearing
Take rings off before gardening, cleaning, swimming, or lifting weights. Chlorine damages silver and gold settings over time, and a knock that would not scratch a sapphire can still bend a prong.
Have settings checked once a year if the ring is worn daily.